The Wonderful World of Rye

When it comes to American spirits, bourbon is king. The sweet and approachable pour has gained global renown, but it was not the first whiskey to define the New World. Before Southerners began to turn their surplus corn into bourbon, Northerners distilled their hardier rye grain into a strong, spicy, and herbal liquor. Rye fell out of fashion, but it never disappeared. It still anchors some of America’s best cocktails and has begun to reassert itself as a serious neat pour. There is no better moment to return to the country’s original whiskey.

For the uninitiated, a mash bill is the list of grains used to distill different types of alcohol before they are placed in barrels to age. Bourbon must be at least 51% corn to qualify for the official government designation, which provides its signature sweetness. Most bourbons fold in smaller amounts of barley, wheat, or rye to add structure. Rye often plays the quiet accomplice, lending a dry spice that sharpens the finish. Even devoted bourbon drinkers already know rye, whether they realize it or not.

Rye has a rich history, especially in New England, and deserves to be celebrated alongside the country's other signature spirits.

Rye follows the same rule in reverse. It must contain at least 51% rye grain, but beyond that the category opens wide. The easiest starting place for bourbon drinkers who want to dip their toe into America’s other whiskey is to ease in with one of the relatively low-rye mash bills. These 51% ryes, often called Kentucky ryes, still have enough corn in the blend to echo many of bourbon’s characteristics, making them an easy transition for those used to the more popular whiskey.

It is a familiar voice with a different accent.

Michter’s Distillery produces a fantastic rye that leans toward bourbon without losing its nerve, preserving the rich, sweet notes of molasses and butterscotch found in bourbon. The rye content adds hints of mint, orange peel, and herbal notes along with a warm, spicy finish. Michter’s also keeps its barrel entry proof low, meaning that very little water needs to be added to tame the spirit before bottling. A concentrated flavor at a lower proof makes it a very approachable pour for new rye drinkers and an excellent choice for summer sipping.

Jack Daniel’s established its name on Tennessee whiskey, but in the last few years, the company has built a reputation for producing some of the best Kentucky-style ryes in the game. The distillery has chosen to go in the opposite direction of Michter’s, many of their best products regularly clock in around 130 proof. The high proof point can be daunting, but a block of ice can help bring the pour back into an acceptable range for the average drinker. The yeast used by Jack Daniel’s lends the rye a pleasant, fruity quality reminiscent of fresh baked banana bread, which pairs well with the sweet molasses and jammy notes that appear on the palate. Light citrus is usually present, making for a very fragrant and flavorful rye from a well-known bourbon brand.

Sazerac has sharpened its base Kentucky rye with a cask-strength offering, which greatly improves the whiskey’s profile. The classic rye spice and molasses notes are present, but the spirit also reveals a unique taste of fresh melon, as if a hint of cantaloupe were added to the palate. Black tea is also present, providing a very interesting, but still relatively approachable, pour. Those who are sensitive to proof are again advised to put this one on a block of ice, which will open up the flavors and tame some of the heat.

Once you move north, the training wheels come off.

Sagamore Spirit and Hard Truth Distilling Co. do not bother softening rye for newcomers. Their mash bills climb to 85% and even 95% rye, and the grain takes full control. The sweetness drops away. What replaces it is sharper, greener, more alive.

This is where rye stops trying to please you.

Mint hits first, then clove, then something almost wild. Fennel, dill, a snap of citrus peel. At times it feels less like a drink and more like walking through a stand of evergreens after rain. Some people joke that rye tastes like a pine tree. They are not wrong. They just do not mean it as a compliment.

They should.

These bottles demand attention. They do not round themselves off for an easy sip. A bourbon drinker might resist at first. A Scotch drinker might look for smoke that never comes. But stay with it. Let the palate adjust. There is a clarity here that other whiskeys cannot reach—a clean, bracing character that feels distinctly American in its refusal to soften.

While rye is growing in popularity among enthusiasts as a neat pour, it has always been popular in cocktails. The Old Fashioned has become one of the most popular whiskey potations in the country, and many consumers have switched the base to bourbon because of their familiarity with the spirit. Still, the drink was originally made with rye. Rye stands up to other cocktail ingredients better than bourbon generally does, which is why it is the traditional base for favorites like the Manhattan and the Sazerac. If you are looking to stock your bar with some affordable ryes for cocktail mixing, Old Forester 100 Rye is a great option for a more Kentucky profile. At the same time, Old Overholt provides an efficiently priced pour in the New England style.

Everyone has their comfort zone when it comes to exploring whiskey, and there is nothing wrong with sticking with your favorites, but for those looking to branch out, rye is a great choice. Rye has a rich history, especially in New England, and deserves to be celebrated alongside the country’s other signature spirits. Its proximity to bourbon makes it relatively accessible to the American palate, and it outperforms the more popular whiskey in many cocktails. With an increasing number of high-quality ryes making their way to market, there has never been a better time to try America’s original whiskey.